In 2007, our Associate Pastor Jill Ulrici traveled on a journey to Greece and Turkey with an interfaith group of Christians, Muslims, and Jews. Here is a travelogue of her adventure! Ask Jill about her trip. She has a lot to share with us.
Wednesday - Friday, November 1-3, 2007
Hello to my Covenant brothers and sisters, I am aboard a ship sailing around the Greek islands. Internet access is costly: $2.25 per download minute so I can't send pictures while aboard but I can send travel updates-at least the highlights. I miss all of you and can't wait to share more of my trip with you in person.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
It has been 24 hours since the last blog entry and again it is evening in Amman. Much has happened in the last 24 hours. After a delicious dinner in our Hotel Larsa, punctuated with lively conversation, we headed to our rooms with our assigned roommates. What a great feeling to stretch out on an actual bed after a night in an airplane seat!
We awoke this morning at 4:00 AM to the sound of the muezzin's call to prayer from a near-by mosque. I use the term "we" loosely as I slept through it myself. However, our Muslim pilgrims along with a few other pilgrims attended the prayer ritual. After another great meal we boarded our tour bus at 8:00 A. M.and sat with our "dance partners" for the day. We began with a very important ritual: counting off. Yes, we each have been assigned a number. No matter how lofty our goals are for this trip, we still need some structure to keep us from being lost, late or left. After gathering ourselves together, we headed north to the city of Jerash, one of the best preserved Roman cities in the Middle East. On the way we passed the time by talking with our respective partners and listening to three of the pilgrims share their faith stories. (Today it happened to be our three leaders. Each pilgrim will have an opportunity to share with the group sometime during the pilgrimage). We also stopped at the Jabbok River where, according to Genesis 32, Jacob wrestled with God (or an angel). The story in Genesis tells of Jacob's anxiety as he returns home to face his brother Esau, whom he had cheated of his birthright many years prior. Jacob does not know if his brother will welcome him or attack him. At the river Jabbok spends a night wrestling with a divine being. Jacob refuses to let go until he is blessed. Finally, he is blessed and God changes his name to Israel but leaves him with an injured hip and a life-long limp. His 12 sons later become the fathers of the twelve tribes of Israel. This story is an important ones for Jews and Christians as most everyone of faith can relate to wrestling with God at some point. Being on that ancient ground was meaningful to everyone.
Jerash was amazing. Founded in 170 BCE, it has been a Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic (under the Ottoman empire) and Jordanian city. Artifacts have been discovered there from the Paleolithic, Neolithic, and the Middle Bronze Age (around 1600 BCE). As we walked through the ancient Roman Theater, Hippodrome (where chariot racing once occurred),the Temple of Artemis, and Oval Plaza (to mention a few structures) we were awed by its size and history. It was especially moving around 11:30 A. M.when we heard the call to prayer from several mosques simultaneously from the town below us.
As the sun rose higher in the sky and it began to get warmer, we also started to get hot, thirsty and tired. At one point we stood around along the path, taking a break from the long walk. When one of the pilgrims, a non-Muslim women, asked some of the Muslims on the trip how they felt about the Jordanian women who covered themselves from head to toe, we struck up a conversation about the roles and rights of women in our respective religions. Various folks asked questions and shared ideas about misogamy (perceived and real) in our different faiths..we agreed to keep the discussion of gender roles going during the trip.
It was after three o'clock when we got lunch. Now we were getting hungry and ready for a rest. Like my dance partner said, "You really get to know a person when you see them upset or angry and see how they handle it". (This he said after I insistently voiced my concern about finding a bathroom.) One of the great things about these kind of trips is that we go beyond lofty idealisms and get to the nitty- gritty of being human beings together; human beings with hope and belief that there is some way to see beyond our differences and live together with respect, a sense of humor and even joy.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
Hi Ernie, Our hotel does not have internet service so I can't send any pictures right now. They are all on my computer and deleted from my camera. But I can send a short update. (I'm at a cafe).
Yesterday (Wednesday) we went to Mt. Nebo, where Moses viewed the promised land but died before he could enter. The story is in the last chapter of Dueteronomy. We saw the view but it was hazy. There is an old church,dedicated to Moses, probably from the 4rth or 5th century that was restored in the early part of this century by the Fransiscans. We then drove down King's Highway and went into the desert in jeeps. We stopped in the middle of the desert to get tea at the Beduin Tent. The sun was setting and the Muslims laid down their prayer rugs and prayed as the sun was setting in the desert. It was quite beautiful The desert is vast and full of dunes and sagebrush and is surrounded by low mountains. It is truly amazing. We are now in Aqaba at the southernmost tip of Jordan on the Red Sea. It is the only port in Jordan and at this point the borders of Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Israel come together and you can see Egypt across the water as well. Aqaba is a beautiful sunny town on the water known for great snorkeling. Tomorrow, being Friday, we will attend a Juma Service in the afternoon somewhere and we will celebrate Sabbat tomorrow evening in Israel. Tonight we will meet as a group for a round table discussion.
Peace, Jill
Friday, Nov. 2, 2007
Fridays are always special days in the life of World Pilgrims' Journeys. We get to celebrate Jumah, the Friday afternoon Muslim communal prayers, and the Friday evening Jewish Shabbat Service welcoming in the Sabbath. In this case we were able to travel from a Muslim country to a Jewish one in between the services.
We had a relaxed morning as many of us were up late last night either out at the Aquaba Disco Club or talking with each other late into the night on the hotel terrace. By now we have chalked up many deep conversations, group jokes, and collected enough information about our various quirks and habits that we can tease each other a bit. We have become uninhibited enough that we can sing and tell jokes into the bus microphone as well as share our more serious faith stories.
And so when we gathered for our private Jumah Service in the hotel conference room at 11 a.m., the experience was all the richer for the wear. The Christian and Jewish women covered their heads with shawls or scarves and stood shoulder to shoulder with their Muslim sisters, who guided us with gestures and nudges in the correct prayer movements and stances. One of our Pilgrims, Imam Salahud-Din Hanif, called us to prayer and Imam Plemon El-Amin gave a message.
He focused on the unity of all human beings, referring to the Q'uran's teachings that all people were created from one soul and were created as different nations so that we could get to know one another, rather than compete with or attack one another. Making prayers followed the message. We ended with everyone hugging and wishing one another "Salam".
After the Jumah service we boarded our bus to cross the border into Eilat, Israel. We had to go through a security check and have our bags x-rayed. Then we walked through "no one's land" that separates the borders of Jordan and Israel. Some people chose not to have their passports stamped with an Israeli stamp as it could prohibit travel to some Muslim nations in the future. We met another tour bus when we all got through and headed to our hotel, which was right on the beach of the Red Sea. The scantily clad sunbathers were quite a contrast to the modestly dressed men and women of Jordan.
We then went to the Ketura Kibbutz where we attended a Shabbat service, which was conducted entirely in Hebrew. Now it was time for the Christian and Muslim men to cover their heads with yarmulke to join with their Jewish brothers in worship. It was a very lively service with much singing and full of people of all ages.
People were very welcoming to us and following the service we had dinner in the Kibbutz dining hall. At our tables were young college-aged people who were attending the Arava Institue for Environmental Studies, an interfaith and multi- national school which holds that "Nature Knows No Borders."
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
As we continue on our pilgrimage, our days are becoming fuller and fuller. So are our minds and our hearts. After early morning prayers and a quick breakfast, I joined the other pilgrims on the hotel terrace. Overlooking the Gulf of Aqaba from the Israeli side, we gathered for a Shabbat Service and joined Rabbi Ron Segal and the other Jewish pilgrims as they prayed and sang in Hebrew and English. They reminded us to "pray as if everything depended on God, and to act as if everything depended on you." When Rabbi Ron pointed out that the day's Torah reading mentioned Abraham's wife Qetura, also the name of the the kibbutz we visited, he asserted that it was no coincidence. A bit more serendipity for our pilgrimage, for our coming together.
At Kibbutz Qetura, we sat with a panel of students who are studying there at Arava Institute. Not only are they learning how to create sustainable environments and purify water, but they are also learning the ingredients of peaceful coexistence. Baraa, a Muslim man from Jerusalem, and Nura, a Muslim woman from Jordan, sat with Katie, a Christian from Utah, Sam, a Jewish teenager from Oregon, and Tova, a Jewish student from California. Together with other Arab, Israeli, and American students, they are learning solutions for environmental challenges as well as the social challenges in their communities. They expressed admiration for our pilgrimage and we expressed joy and renewed hope at what they are doing. Over lunch together, we excitedly discussed the possibilities for a peaceful future.
The next morning found us in a cave-like setting preparing for a Sunday morning Christian service. With the birds chirping above us, we sat in the light of Petra, a city named one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, ready to worship. Each of the Christian pilgrims contributed to the service: singing, preaching, and praying. Tom sang the prayer of St. Francis of Assisi; Faith's violin music floated around us; and, Dr. Durley's moving sermon reminded us that we are indeed our brother's and sister's keeper. We linked hands and sang the words of the protest song, "We Shall Overcome." The words were no longer a protest, but a promise.
WHERE IN THE WORLD IS JILL?
Oct. 30, 2006
Hi Ernie, we are here in Istanbul..very beautiful city...so far I just have pictures of people on the plane and a few in the rain around the hotel... tomorrow we visit mosques so will have better pictures and will send tomorrow night which will l be tomorrow morning for you. Internet connection is spotty and most likely slow so may not be able to send too many pix at once. Hope all is well with everyone and yesterday went OK..see you, Jill
Wednesday Nov. 1: Beautiful weather-the rain had cleared and it was sunny. We visited the Topkapi Palace which holds the treasures of the Ottomon empire which ruled Turkey from the 1400's until 1920. Remember that Istanbul used to be Constantinople after Constantine became emperor in the 300's. It was a Christian country until the Ottomons took over and it became Muslim. The palace has all the jewels and clothing from the empire including many holy Muslim artifacts like clothing and possessions of Mohammed and objects that once belonged to Abraham and Ishmael (or so they claim). Fortunately I had a very knowledgeable Muslim partner that day who explained a lot to me. After the palace we went back to the Grand Bazaar and I got a red leather jacket. Then we met with an interfaith group in Istanbul funded by the governement and from there boarded a boat and crossed the Bospherus Sea to the Asian part of Istanbu (it is on two continents-Europe and Asia). That night we broke into small groups and each ate dinner with a Turkish family, which was really interesting.
Thursday Nov. 2: We got up at 4:30 AM to catch a plane to Athens, Greece. Athens is a beautiful city with a dramatic mixture of the ancient and modern. Beautiful blue skies. The highlight was climbing the Acopolis and seeing the Parthenon. Originally a temple built in honor of the Greek Goddess of Wisdom, Athena, it later became a church, then a masque. Now of course it is for tourists to see. We saw the Agora where St. Paul talked to the people of Athens and a plaque on a hill where he was supposed to have preached. The plaque has the words of his speech from Acts 17:23-31.
Friday, Nov. 3: We got up early to board our ship the Sea Diamond. The weather was cold and rainy and the sea was choppy. Lots of seasickness. We had a Jumah service on board (Muslim prayer service) and then at sunset a Shabbot service led by the Jewish people on the trip. After dinner we watched the show that was on board the ship. Lots of American tourists on the ship and too much food. Sunday at Ephesus we are planning a Christian service. Each of the Christians on the trip are from a different denomination. We have everthing from Pentacostal to Roman Catholic so planning a worship service together has been an interesting experience. I am sad to hear about Agnes Hooks. We lost two great women in a few weeks time. My prayers are with all of you. I am learning much and having a great time.
SATURDAY, SUNDAY & MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4-6
Saturday, November 4: We docked on the island of Rhodes which at one time had a large Jewish population, many of whom live in Atlanta now. We visited a synogogue and tiny Greek Orthodox church. The weather was somewhat warmer though overcast. The landscape was beautiful.
Sunday, Novemeber 5: Extremely cold. We visited the island of Patmos and saw the cave where St. John wrote the book of Revelation while he was in exile for preaching the gospel in Ephesus. They have identified the hollow in the rock of the cave where he is believed to have rested his head as he dictated the book. A tiny chapel was built around the cave in the 11th century and a worship service was taking place (Greek Orthodox) when we came inside. Later we went to Ephesus (which is in Turkey) and saw the ruins of that city and went to the huge colliseum and held our Chrisitan worship service where your pastor delivered the sermon. I used the text from I John 4: "Beloved, let us love one another for love is of God and the one that loves knows God and is born of God. The one that does not love does not know God, for God is love." It was a text that all of the religions could relate to. That was an exhilerating experience: to preach in the colliseum of that ancient city where Paul founded a church so many centuries ago. Our tour guide, who happend to be a Muslim originally from Austalia, did not know that we had planned to have a worship service in the colliseum and afterwards he was moved to tears. He said, "We are really not so different. We all want the same thing. We all believe in one God"
Monday, November 6: Today we are back in Athens and I am at an internet cafe. We have the day off to do whatever we want. Apparantly there has been a law in Athens that no Muslim mosques can be built. That law is currently being challenged and tonight we are meeting with a person in Athens who is a proponet of this change in the law. So there is much to learn.
Tuesday we will fly back to Istanbul and spend the day shopping and have a farewell dinner and Wednesday we will be flying all day. So I will not be writing any more. I have given you the external framework of the trip but not what is going on internally: the conversations and discussions and relationsips and sharing that have taken place. It has been a small step at building bridges and removing walls between people that are different from one another. I can't wait to share with all of you the things I have learned.